This is precisely cooked food in a smart location at a fair price. It restores your faith in humanity
Stem, 5 Princes Street, London W1B 2LF (020 7629 9283). Meal for two, including drinks and service, £100
All you ever want to know is that everything’s going to be OK. You want to know that deciding to spend your money in a particular restaurant is not a gross, humiliating error of judgment. It could be the flashing white teeth of an engaged welcome that reassures you. Perhaps it’s the immediate offer of a drink, rather than treatment designed to inflame abandonment issues. It could be the writing of the menu, which suggests a kitchen with good taste and a modicum of basic literacy. A misplaced apostrophe can put me right off my roasted beetroot’s.
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